
The most intriguing thing about wine to me is how one bottle can vary so greatly from another, even though it can be made from the exact same grape varietal. It is this uniqueness and mystery that can differentiate an average table wine from a top growth Bordeaux. But what makes one bottle so complex and another so ordinary; aren’t they both made from fermented grape juice? The answer lies in the Terroir…
There is no English equivalent for the French term and concept of terroir. Meant to describe the total natural environment of any viticultural site, it encompasses the climate, sunlight, topography, geology and soil-water relations. Each plot of land that grows grapes has its own unique terroir, and it is these specific natural influences that give the wine a sense of place. Regardless of variations in harvesting and wine-making, these distinctive qualities create a certain taste and style of wine that are consistent from year to year. Even with similar harvesting practices, the final product cannot be replicated elsewhere. The subtle flavours and nuances that differ from one bottle of wine to the next are a direct result of the terroir it grew in.
Terroir also determines what types of seeds can be planted, and where, because the ultimate ripening of the grapes and quality of wine depend on it. Early ripening varieties, such as Chardonnay, require cooler climates, or else they will appear heavy and lack freshness and aromatic expression. Chardonnay from Chablis in France or Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, are both examples of early ripening grapes that when grown in cooler climates are expressed perfectly. Producers in New World countries seem to be developing a better understanding of the importance of local climatic conditions with respect to the types of grapes they are planting. Growers are seeking out cooler regions, such as Carneros instead of Napa Valley in California, or high altitude vineyards in Argentina, New Zealand and Tasmania.
Planting a seed and growing a vine does not simply result in good wine. There are many aspects that go into producing the final product. With all the intricacies that make up a “simple” bottle of wine (from genetically modified seeds, grafted vines, terroir and harvesting methods to the use of American versus French oak), it’s not hard to imagine that one day bottles will have their own DNA attached to a barcode to help us in our selection process!
Picture courtesy of Dr. J. Klassen’s trip to France











